Dissecting the Farm-to-Table Fable

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The vibrant, mega-million-dollar farm to table movement is under increasing scrutiny these days. In San Diego, where produce is an $1.8 billion industry and year-round farmers markets can be found in almost every neighborhood (one of the few financial spinoffs of climate change, perhaps), the farm-to-table concept is getting a bad rep.

The vibrant, mega-million-dollar farm to table movement is under increasing scrutiny these days. In San Diego, where produce is an $1.8 billion industry and year-round farmers markets can be found in almost every neighborhood (one of the few financial spinoffs of climate change, perhaps), the farm-to-table concept is getting a bad rep.

Farmers and ranchers say that the system doesn’t deliver. Or, more precisely, the restaurants that have for years cashed-in on the concept aren’t paying for what they get.

The story of San Diego’s farm-to-table dilemma first broke earlier this year, when San Diego Magazine columnist Troy Johnson interviewed a number of farmers and ranchers who said they were finding their brands listed on upscale menus where they hadn’t sold their products. Some had been turned down and then found their produce was being touted on the menu; others said they had never actually been contacted by the restaurant. One farmer had actually confronted the restaurant and later been compensated for what he said was fraudulent representation.

And yes, Johnson’s story got immediate attention. The well-known local food critic instantly found himself in the hot seat from restauranteurs who could show that they had a long-standing and successful farm-to-table relationship with local growers. In a subsequent article, he unearthed his research and gave names, dates and accounts of some of the complaints he had heard and investigated.

Continue reading at ENN affiliate, Triple Pundit.

Produce image via Shutterstock.